Trailside Troubleshooting 101: What We Learned (and what every rider should carry)

Thanks to everyone who joined us for our first-ever Trailside Troubleshooting Clinic here at The Line! From fixing chains to tubeless tire knowledge, we covered real-life trail issues and how to fix them fast — without killing the vibe of your ride. 

Whether you joined us in person or want to brush up on your own repair game, here’s a recap of what we covered, the tools we used, and how to build your own ready-for-anything kit. 

Top 5 Takeaways from the Trailside Tech Clinic 

1. Clean Your Bike More Often Than You Think 

A dirty bike can hide problems. Built-up mud and dust can cover cracks, wear down components faster, and even prevent you from spotting issues like cable fray or oil leaks. Cleaning your bike gives you a better sense of its condition, and it’s especially important in the Pacific Northwest where conditions can swing between rain, dust, and mud in a single ride. 

 
What to clean regularly: 

• Frame (check for wear or cracks) 

• Drivetrain (cassette, derailleur, chainrings) 

• Chain (grime buildup leads to wear) 

• Bonus: Cleaning is the best time to spot anything weird before it becomes a real issue. 

2. Drivetrain Troubleshooting, Quick Tips, & Tech 

We learned how to think critically about drivetrain and brake issues when diagnosing acute and chronic issues: 

One underrated tool to aid in avoiding costly drivetrain wear is a chain checker. This tiny gauge tells you when your chain has “stretched” past its prime  

Catching it before it surpasses 50% (0.5) or 75% (0.75) on your unique tool will allow the rider to get as much life out of the cassette and chainrings as possible. We recommend both the Park Tool CC-3.2 and Park Tool CC-4.2 tool depending on your drivetrain specifications. Don't hesitate to call us if you'd like help determining which fits your needs.  

How to Spot a Worn Cassette & Chainring:  

• …🦈Baby Shark, doo-doo, doo-doo, doo-doo!🎵... Remember this annoyingly catchy tune next time you're inspecting the gears for signs of normal and abnormal wear.  

• Any teeth that appear to have a distinct concave shape (specifically the left-side of each individual tooth), it's likely nearing replacement.  

• Cassettes & rear cogs can be MUCH trickier to discern wear and tear visually. 

• Pro-Tip: take one of the prongs on your chain checker (or anything with a fine tip) and try to scrape the front-facing edges of the teeth. This will help pinpoint any metal burrs present on a worn sprocket impeding smooth shifting.  

• Last but not least, repeat after me: "I will never put a new chain on a badly worn or neglected drivetrain!" 😊 

Friction Ain't Fun 

If you have a drivetrain system that shifts mechanically (as opposed to electronically), your cables and housing will be subjected to the elements and eventually to friction induced issues. A little lubrication applied to the internals of the cable's outer-casing goes a long way! 

Derailleur Hanger 101 

It can be tricky to eyeball a bent derailleur hanger at first, but all it takes is a little practice to know what you're looking for. Here's a great video from Park Tool on YouTube if you want some extra credit! 

3. Lube Your Chain, Properly 

Clean your chain first. Lube works best on a clean surface. 

• Apply lube – Backpedal slowly and add a small drop to the chain links as they move. 

• Let it soak – Wait 5–10 minutes so the lube penetrates inside the chain. 

• Wipe off the excess – Use a rag to remove all visible lube from the outside of the chain. 

• Reapply regularly – Every 2–4 rides in dry conditions, or after every wet/muddy ride. 

• Pro tip: Use dry lube for dusty days, wet lube for wet or muddy conditions. Lubing your chain is essential for performance and longevity. A dry chain wears out faster, makes more noise, and shifts poorly. But too much lube—or the wrong kind—can just attract dirt. 

• Rule of thumb: If your chain sounds dry or starts squeaking, it’s time to clean and re-lube. 

4. Check Your Brake Pads 

Brakes are prone to friction if they aren't maintained properly. We learned how to eyeball the brake components for signs of wear or contamination, especially on the pads. If your brakes feel soft, start making noise, or require more lever pull than usual, your pads could be glazed, worn down, or misaligned. 

Disc brake pad wear can be subtle. Most pads have just a few millimeters of material, so it’s tough to judge remaining life at a glance. If you’re unsure, swing by the shop—we’ve got the specialized tools to measure exact pad thickness and can recommend whether it’s time to replace, clean, or just realign your calipers. 

5. Don’t Be Afraid to Ask Questions 

This clinic reminded us: you don’t need to be a pro mechanic to maintain your bike. Just asking questions, learning what each part does, and getting comfortable poking around your own setup makes a big difference. 

Takeaway: Building confidence is a process. Start small, practice often, and you’ll be trailside troubleshooting in no time. 

When in doubt: call us or stop by The Line, and we’ll help you get fully dialed. 

🧼 Essential Bike Maintenance Products We Covered 🔗 

Keeping your bike clean isn’t just about looks—it’s a critical part of keeping your drivetrain running smoothly and extending the life of your components. Dirt, dust, mud, and trail grit can grind away at your chain, cassette, and derailleur if left unchecked. These products can help keep you dialed. Stop by the shop to stock up on the necessities! 

Muc-Off Nano Tech Cleaner 

This spray is your best friend after a dirty ride. Spray it on your frame, tires, and drivetrain to loosen grime. Safe for all bike materials — carbon, aluminum, steel, etc. Spray generously, let it sit for a few minutes, give your components a scrub, then rinse with water. 

Degreasers & Drivetrain-Specific Cleaners 

The dirtiest part of your bike is the drivetrain (your chain, cassette, chainrings, and derailleur), and it needs extra love. That’s where degreasers come in. 

Pedro’s Or Finish Line Degreaser: Designed specifically to cut through the oily gunk on your chain and cassette without damaging rubber or plastic parts. 

Drivetrain-specific tools like the Pedro’s Chain Pig or Park Tool CM-5.3: These clamp around your chain and scrub it as you backpedal, making the job cleaner and faster. 

Brush Sets 

Different parts of your bike need different tools to get the job done. A good cleaning brush set usually includes: 

• Soft Bristle Frame Brush: For your frame, fork, and wheels. Won’t scratch your paint or components. 

• Drivetrain Brush (aka “gear brush”): Shaped for getting between cassette teeth and chainrings. Great for cutting through packed-in grime. 

• Cone Brush / Detail Brush: Slim enough to reach into tight spots—think around your bottom bracket or under your rear derailleur. 

• Toothbrush-style brush: Great for chains, pulley wheels, and cleaning around bolts or pivots. 

• Pro tip: Keep a separate brush just for your drivetrain to avoid spreading grease and grit to other parts of the bike. 

Chain Checker 

We recommend both the Park Tool CC-3.2 and Park Tool CC-4.2 tool depending on your drivetrain specifications. Don't hesitate to call us if you'd like help determining which fits your needs.  

Master Link + Quick Link Pliers 

Many chains now use quick links for easy removal and reinstallation. These pliers pop a stuck link open in seconds — great for on-trail fixes or deep cleaning. 

Lube 

• Dry lube is great for dry, dusty days—stays clean but wears off faster. 

• Wet lube is ideal for rainy or muddy rides—lasts longer but attracts more dirt. 

How often to reapply: Every 2–4 rides in dry weather, or after any wet/muddy ride. 

Stop by The Line Bike Experience in North Bend, WA to stock up on these bike essentials, chat with our service team, or drop your ride off for a full tune-up ahead of prime biking season!